Friday, February 8, 2008

Swallowing Trends

Everything follows trends. Fashion, music, campaign slogans, and even something as geeky as web design. For any beer geek and even the casual beer explorer, you are probably aware that the hot style of beers have been the imperials. Imperial Russian stouts, Imperial Pilsners, and the mother of all Imperials, the Imperial India Pale Ale.

For those of you who don't really understand what it means for a beer to be imperial, here is the lowdown. Imperial beers are usually high in alcohol, which mean they have been made with more malt. The higher malt creates more sugar in the brewing process, which means more alcohol is produced in the fermenting process. WooHoo! But with that boost in sugar and without anything else, it will be too sweet of a brew. To balance out this sweetness, brewers add massive amounts of hops, beer's bittering element, and in the case of the Imperial IPA, they add an insane amount of hops. These are the qualities of all imperials, regardless of style.

The interesting thing about trends is that one thing can happen and derail it all. For imperials, that bump has happened. The key ingredient to make an imperial beer is hops. Without hops, an imperial becomes an out-of-balance sweet ale. Hops prices have sky rocketed due to poor crop seasons in the U.K. and eastern europe. The United States' crop production was average, but unfortunately there was a massive fire at a large warehouse and a portion of this years hop harvest burnt up. In addition, hop stockpiles usually are turned into extract for large commercial brewery stockpiles. It is believed that those stockpiles are gone. To make matters worse, much of land that once was cultivated for hop production has gone to more valuable and less fragile crops. As a homebrewer and the last in the long line of those requiring hops, I have seen prices on a few ounces of hops almost double and many are not even in stock. All in all, hops are scarce.

Does this mean that your favorite hoppy beer is is on the verge of extinction? Nope. Many brewers have contracts with farmers and will probably keep on brewing without a change in recipe. But I believe that brewers will be less likely to create a whole new line of beer that require massive amounts of hops. They will continue brewing their hoppy beers because they have built an expectation with their customers, but in the next few years don't expect as many newly developed beers that require lots of hops.


With the fall of thick gold chains came the rise of hammer pants. This too will happen with beer. Now, I am not usually the one that enjoys making predictions, but I think I might have an idea where brewers might stray with these low hop reserves. Beer drinkers have gotten used to these interesting beers that challenge their palette and if brewers don't have hops then they are going to have to create something else to grab our taste buds.

There are two possible avenues I see brewers taking. One is barrel conditioning. I have already begun to see an influx of porters, stouts and other ales conditioned in used wine, wiskey, bourbon and even sake casks. They impart oakiness, vanilla, burnt carmeliness and the most interesting, a sharp sour twang. The sourness is usually imparted thru a yeast strain called Brettanomyces. Typically, this strain of yeast is not a good thing to see in your beer, but when used on purpose, the beer can get interesting. The yeast is already living within the barrel as red wine makers like to use it in low levels to help develop complexity and an aged character. All I know is that it can do some funky stuff with beer and I like it.

The other path that I see breweries following is digging deep into their recipe chest and pulling out their oldies, but goodies. There are many styles of beer that do not get much play today. I have already discussed the Berliner-weisse; then there is the Rauchbier, a smoked malt beer; the Alt, german for old and has a big malt taste; Saison, a crisp french farmhouse ale; or maybe Bier De Garde, another french ale but more malty than the Saison. All of these beers play more with grain and yeast rather than with hops.

These older styles are more likely a short term fix while the other stuff is aging in old barrels. Or maybe we will see a mixture of these old styles of beer conditioned in the oak barrels. I could easily see a Gueuze Lambic, a spontaneously fermented wheat ale, conditioned in an old Pinot Noir barrel.

While some may not be as excited about my Pinot Lambic as they are about an imperial coffee stout, one thing for sure is that when ingredients go scarce, the chefs begin to cook with what they have. For me, as long as it keeps my interests peaked and something other than a bud in my hand, I will be happy.

Cheers!

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